Distance covered today: 17km

Total TA distance: 154km

Today I had a wash in a culvert like all good hobo’s should.

Some overnight rain meant that pack up was a little damp this morning. I was out of water and needed to fill straight away. The track notes say load up with water for the day ahead and they weren’t wrong – there were very few water sources today.

On the trail by 7:30am, at 8:00am I run into an Isreali guy who had the same idea as me – get as far yesterday as possible and camp where you drop. Pleasantries exchanged I moved on and didn’t see him again. I was sure he would catch me.

Today was through the other notoriuos forest, the Raetea Forest, soon to be renamed by me as the Tough Mudder Forest. This forest needs respect and the descriptions for it certainly stack up. I only travelled 17km today and there is a really vaild reason – this forest is rough.

A mud infested jungle of unexpected proportions. Travel was slow, at times down to 1.5km an hour. Steep. Lots of straight ups and straight downs all day. Relentless. Thick, thick, shoe retaining mud. Not as deep as SW Tasmania but on par for difficulty.

I passed the french girls on the main ridgeline. The same two girls I warned to wait the rain out in Ahipara on Monday but who decided to travel on. They didn’t get far by the look of things – I’ve had a full extra rest day and I managed to catch up with them.

Now back to the track. If the Te Araroa didn’t pass through the Reatea Forest, no-one would ever visit, not even a crazy kiwi. There is nothing here other than a route from one end of the forest to the other. There are very few views along the way and it is basically a green corridor.

Roots and roots everywhere, making for difficult scrambling and slippage. Plus the vines, like lawyers, they have their lasso out trying to grab hold you with every move, trying to trip you up or tangle your pack.

It was a tough, tough day. Respect to the Reatea.

Exiting the true forest there was a 5km down hill section to contend with. Reaching this section I bumped into another couple from Canada. They let me go in front. This section was just as muddy and didn’t seem like it was going to end.By the time I reached the next road, Makene Road, I was beat. Blistered right heal having had wet socks all day and filthy, mud caked legs and shoes. On finding the first running water, in this case a culvert, I threw my shoes, socks and gaiters in for a wash and have a scrub down myself.

At 5 o’clock I was done. I found a nice cleared patch in a pine forest and set up camp.

Distance covered today: 36km

Total TA distance covered: 137km

I knew I had to get a move on today and get some k’s in regardless of weather. Taking a zero day yesterday was worth it I reckon. Yesterdays rain bucketed down from early morning into the early afternoon. I’m not sure how many mm worth but more than enough to justify spending an entire day drench, tackling what is talked up as a very muddy, rooty, steep track.

I was off by 6:15am and made quick work of the 9km road walk to Herekino Saddle and getting to the start of the Herekino Track around 8:00am. This is the first DOC managed track on the Te Araroa and with it the first signs indicating estimated timings to complete the track. DOC’s estimate was 8 hours to Diggers Road. I was keen to see how long it would take me, not to race the time, but to gauge how my normal pace would stack up against the estimate. I would know if I was walking slow if it took me the whole 8 hours. As it turns out I got through in 6.5 hours.

Now the Herekino Track has been talked up on many blogs as an being extremely muddy, difficult track. But in completing the whole track I would have to say there is probably a fair amount of euro/american centric views being put into those writings. As it turns out, yeah there is some mud, and some quite long sections, but nothing higher than the ankles. I have had a fair apprenticeship in rack sack sports, particularly bushwalking/hiking/tramper, call it what you will; and if you want to see mud, head to the south west of Tasmania. Now that is mud! So all in all Herekino wasn’t that bad in my arrogant opinion. I will say this though, the description of the last steep descent to the farmland was accurate – easily 35 degrees or more, rooty, and nice red clay making for perfect slippage under foot.

The highlight of the track had to be walking through the grove of the majestic kauri trees. Huge girths and towering trunks punching to the sky to spread out a mop of thick upper canopy branches, covered in ferns and moss. These trees were once widespread but are now rare and protected. Past logging of these beasts has seen their decline.

The kauri has a similar history to the huon pine of Tasmania. Now protected, their wood is extremely valuable and is used for fine furnishings and craft. And similar to the huon, most kauri is reclaimed from under water or peat bogs these days, no harvesting.

Following the end of the Herekino I was at a bit of a loss of what to do. Too early camp at 2:15pm or so and plenty of daylight left to make up some lost ground from yesterdays day off, so I kept walking. And walking. And walking. Before I knew it I was in Takaune but there is no where to camp. It’s all farm land with fences right up both side of the road, so no where really to just crash. So I kept on going trying to fine a stop to camp. 5 o’clock comes, still no where; 5:30 nowhere. It was around 6pm that I’d had enough. I needed to find a piece of flat ground fast, to stop for the day, set up camp and get some tucker in. I spied a what looked to be an abandoned driveway. There were gates, but they were open, well rusted and the track had no signs of any recent traffic. Walking another 200m on I found was I was looking for on the side of the old track and that was end of my day.

I’m in the middle of nowhere and I have reception!

Think I’m staying put today. Early on for a 2nd rest day already but something tells me it’s the right decision. Just about to head into a Herekino forest that has a reputation for steep, hard, muddy, poorly defined trail. Add 75mm of rain and it isn’t looking pretty. With MET cautions for the severe weather in the area and the forecast pretty much putting all the predicted 75mm directly overhead it’s an easy decision really. Will just have to make up ground later on.

Having a zero day today. Basically a rest day with zero kilometres. Although not exactly resting. While the body can recover a little with no big miles with a pack on, there is a resupply to do. Ahipara doesn’t have much in the way of shops to resupply from so a hich into Kaitaia will be required. Being a Sunday, I’m hoping stuff will be open….

Well no problem at all. A new cafe on the edge of Apihara was open for business and there is nothing nothing like a fresh latte to start the day. I managed to hitch a ride into Kaitatia  within 5 minutes with a local and hit up the Pack ‘n’ Save for a resupply for the next 5 day leg. Managed to skype home using one of the many Spark free wifi hotspots dotted around the place and got a ride back with a French traveller only a kilometre out of town. 

The remainder of the day will be rest, recuperation and lots of fruit and veg. 

Distance covered today: 31km

Total TA distance: 101km

With out a doubt I have had some pretty hard slogs before on different adventures but nothing springs to mind that is comparable to today. Bashing out 30km on sand is no fun at all. I knew it would have to be a massive effort and so set off early, around 6:30am to make use of the cooler conditions and harder sand with the tide out.

Not much to say really other than it was tough. The curve in the beach indicating Ahipara came into view soon enough, but that was it. The beach never seemed to get any shorter and the township never any closer. The sun is fierce, scoulding every piece of exposed skin. Smothered in multiple layers of sand caked sunscreen and long covering on my legs, arms and neck there was nothing for it but to trudge tediously on.

The 90mile beach is a great opener to the Te Araroa. Already I’ve experienced the physical and mental aspects of the trail already. Many people make the decision here on the beach that they’ve had enough already and pull out off the trail. The physical aspects – the bottom of my left foot is killer on the sand, every step hurts. Hope it’s only temporary. But i know there is no easy way off this beach unless hitching a ride with one of the many passing 4WD’s. This early on in the piece though? No way. Push on it was. And with pushing on comes the mental game. Constant questioning in my head – Why am I doing this to myself? Always to be pushed aside by the positive voice, again, reminding myself that today was always going to be a long hard slog and that I have a rest day tomorrow with zero km’s to look forward. Then the reasons why I am out here pop into my head and all is well.

On the plus side, 100km mark reached today, mostly done on sand and not a single blister thus far! What a relief to have finished 90 mile beach. Now bring on the jungle of the Herekino.

Checked in at the Ahipara Holiday Park. Washed and laundered. Walked a short distance down the road to Aunty G’s take away for fish and chips. Aunty’s is basically a food van parked in the driveway of a suburban house. Here I met Steve, a Maori teacher, who offered me a lift to the superette to pick up some beers. With my attitude of saying ‘yes’ for this trip it was an easy decision. Beer with fish ‘n’ chips and local hospitality, what a way to end a hard day.

Kiwi’s love that people are walking Te Araroa and super excited when ever I tell them what I’m up to.

Distanced covered: 25km
Total TA distance: 70km

Wind is down and looks to be a sunny day. Slept well and sound through the night. Dreamt of my dog Jack running along besides me on the beach. Sea to Summit blow up pillow is the best invention ever along with compression socks.

Got away at 7:15 for another long gruelling day of beach walking. The beach is long, stretching far out in front and it’s really difficult to gauge distance. You’ll spot something in the distance thinking it is massive, like a car heading towards you, but the closer you get there is no change, it’s not moving towards you….turns out to be a piece of seaweed or a bird.

The tide was at it highest with waves washing up as high as they could to a vegetated sand bank. The bank itself was 4-5 m high with many lower blow outs interspersed. I avoided a couple of close calls of being inundated with the waves rushing in silently or much quicker than expected but was eventually beaten at this cat and mouse game by the sea. I couldn’t scramble up the wall quick enough with a fast moving wave. Under my body weight my perch collapsed as water spilled in underneath and the lower half of my right leg copped a soaking from the sea.

To be honest there was not much to tell of the beach really. I was kind of expecting to see lots of interesting flotsam, some sea life like seals or washed up dead sharks or whale bones. But it was really quite boring. I know this is not always the case as I’ve read other trampers accounts of the journey and stories from the locals.

The sand tread is very difficult on the feet, particularly towards the end of the day and the difficulty judging distance was hard on the mind. You would walk for what felt like kilometres only to glance at your watch or gps and realise you have only covered 2km or so and only been walking for 1/2 hour. It was tough but i kept telling myself it can only get easier each day. The body is holding out better today, particularly my shoulders which is great. 

Two things that did stick out today were. 1: The discovery of an old bike on the sand bank. Obviously abandoned with a blown tyre but still rideable with the drive chain all good. A bit if beach riding was called for but did not last long with the skinny tyres in the soft sand. 

The other was the ouster catchers finding Tau Tau (pippies) in the shallows, flying high, dropping them and repeating until they were broken open on the ground.

Made it to Utea Park today having walked another 25km. Utea is a family trust property with multiple small bunk units that trampers can stay in for koha (donation). They have hot showers, drinking water, kitchen facilities and flushing toilets. What an awesome spot and very generous of Paul and Tanya to share their property. And to top it off, a seasonal blueberry picker staying at Utea, Steven, handed me an ice cold beer. Great way to finish the day.

On arrival, the young couple who I met yesterday were already at Utea, having must have passed me when I pulled up stumps yesterday. They filled up with water and pushed on. Gutsy but not for me. My feet say stop and so I did. Their next destination was another 17km on. 

Later, Bob, an older Kiwi TA tramper arrived at Utea. I passed him on the beach yesterday but he didn’t seem very talkative at the time as I said G’day. He was hoping for a shop at Utea to top up his sugar levels but found the camp to be just a camp. I offered him one of my chocolate bars which were in surplus. In buying food for the first leg I forgot to factor in the lunch that was provided by the tour bus to Cape Reinga. A warm shower and dinner. Bob picked up quite a bit and we got talking for a while. He’s on the TA down to Auckland before heading home to Dunedin. 

A mattress after a few days of lugging a pack was a welcome relief. Sound sleep would be had but still and early night. Shut eye at 7:30pm. 

Tomorrow I pass the 100km mark!

The view of the stars out the cabin windows was amazing.

Distance today: 25km
Total TA Distance: 45km

Day two was always going to be a pain, literally, my body aches all over. Little sprinkling of rain over night but nothing to worry about. Tough day. Body sore – feet, shoulders, legs. Got away at 7:30am. Strong southerly, head on. Sun is intense and added to the wind makes for a red face.

I was happily walking away listening to a pod cast on mt ipod when a couple also walking the Te Araroa came up from behind. I was oblivious to their presence with head phones in and they startled me. Introductions out the way we continued on. 

High tide made for difficult walking on soft sand and frequent breaks were required but the pace was maintained. The next camp most trampers aim for is The Bluff. I was really keen to knock out as many Km’s along 90mile as I can in a day so i pressed on once at The Bluff.  I was hoping to break the beach up with a couple of 25km days and a big 30 at the end rather than a couple of 30kers in a row.

The roar of the ocean and wind in my ears all day was crazy. Non stop noise all day. Fine sand has found its way into everything with the head on southerly as well. Any camp tonight will have to be sheltered.

Getting to the 45 km mark, i’d had enough. My mind said yes, keep pushing, but my body said no more. 25km is not bad. I’ll have to repeat the same tomorrow. 

I opted to take shelter in the nearby pines. Out of the wind for a bit and some shade at least. Absolutely knackered. Was set up, had dinner and in bed by 17:30. Mildey dehydrated with a headache but not too bad. Last fill up point for water was 10km ago and needed to carry enough for the rest of today and all of tomorrow but obviously didn’t drink enough while being conservative. 2.5 litres left for tomorrow. Should be fine. Great decision to bring compression socks for leg recovery, they weigh very little and are fantastic.

Don’t get me wrong, I’ve done plenty of beack walking in my time and in the right area and conditions it can’t be beat – think Whitsundays or Hinchenbrook Island – but I’m finding 90 mile beach particularly uninspiring. It’s like walking the 90 mile beach back home. It’s exposed to the sun and wind which makes even a lunch stop a short affair with little releif from UV or fine sand. I did bring an umbrella, yep an umbrealla, and along the beach it had earnt it’s place – but i am thnking this will one of the first pieces of gear to be sent home to lighten the load. 

Distance traveled today: 20 km
Total TA distance covered: 20 km

Today is a good day to start walking the length of New Zealand

Great start to TA. Weather was ok. Sunny but with a moderate southerly blowing. The sun is so intense here. I arrived at Cape Reinga on the Sand Surfarri bus at around 12:30 but didn’t hang around long, knowing there was a big day ahead to get some distance in. I was so excited to finally see the lighthouse after all the work in getting here. I shot down to it to join the other hoards of tourists snapping away. Thanks to Shane for capturing my starting pic at the lighthous -that stomach will soon dissapear. 1452km to Bluff as the crow flies. I have more than twice this distance  to cover on foot and was keen to make a start.

 I covered ground quickly, my body settling in to the new found weight on my back. Not as heavy as the pack hike test for work each year but heavy enough. I hit the first beach section on Twiglight Beach and was started to find the beach walking rough on the feet. Now if I’m thinking this already I had 90 mile beach to look forward to. It will be a challenge.

It was reflecting type of day walking on the beach as thoughts came and when and I settled into a good stride. To think that I’m actually here and making a start on a massive adventure. I’m very fortunate to have the time off work. Contemplating this, a huge smile broke out on my face that erupted into spontenous laughter and culminated into in exhiltrated wohoo on the beach. But the task is so large I can’t fathem the distance to Bluff just yet. Each day, and each step at a time me thinks for now. 

Originally I set out to reach Te Paki Stream 20km aling the trail but nearing Twilight Beach and approaching 4pm an early day was looking good. Walking at the steps I met two young French guys who’s english was less than average and I didn’t really feel like spending the first night in shallow, child like english explaining everything, I wanted to find a quiet place of my own. So i pressed on at about 4pm and hit 90 mile beach soon enough, sticking with the original plan of making it to Te Paki Stream. 

The walk down the stairs onto 90mile beach said it all. Slow and steady. My body is not used to hard walking at the moment and I expect the next couple of days will be painfull, on the feet, shoulders and back as I ease into it. Te Paki Stream couldn’t come soon enough and i reached just shy of the 20km at the stream at 6:30pm. Wohoo! 20km down, 2980 to go. 

The stream was running low but enough water was found for a top up. I found a nice sheltered camp spot behind the dunes. Being outdoors again and setting up camp was great but a reminder to stay organised as I’ll have to do this another 120 or so times. An early dinner was called for and sleep beckoned. I’m not looking forward to day two – i never do on any trip. Thats when you feel every niggle. But it wont be for long. I’ll soon get use to it and really looking forward to the point in time, in a week or so, that walking with a pack feels natural and all the little niggles are dealt with.

 Having issues with photos but some to followcwhen better connected. 

Off to a great start. Arrived in Kerikeri yesterday to fantastic weather and getting prepared today. Staying at the Hone Keke Lodge and shared a room with another Te Araroa tramper last night, who started at Cape Reinga about 10 days ago and is continuing on today. 

For me, today is all about getting the final preparations complete. Unpacking and repacking after flights – all of the gear that will be carried on the outside of my pack was squeezed inside to ensure nothing went missing in transit; getting SIM cards for my ipad and mobile; and heading to the supermarket to get my first supply for the trail. 

I travel to Kaitaia tomorrow then head north to Cape Reinga to kick off on Wed. 

Fours days of food in photo below. I forgot how good the dried fruit, lolly and nut section of New World is over here. Weigh out as much as you want and huge selection. Nice dried paw paw, papaya and pineapple will be delicious.

Stay tuned.

November seems to be a peak time for avdenturers to commence Te Araroa. And while I’ll start this trip solo I wont be alone out there, at least at the start of the trip. Looks there are a few people starting either side of me who I’m bound to run into along the trail. I look forward to meeting them all. Many of these folk have blogs which you can follow as well, which can be found via the Te Araroa Website: http://www.teararoa.org.nz/trailstories/